Fashion retailer H&M is to use artificial intelligence (AI) to create digital "twins" of 30 models.

It says it will use the AI doppelgangers in some social media posts and marketing in the place of humans, if permitted by models.

"We are curious to explore how to showcase our fashion in new creative ways – and embrace the benefits of new technology – while staying true to our commitment to personal style," said its chief creative officer, Jörgen Andersson, in a statement.

Despite H&M's claim it would not change its "human-centric approach" some fear the move could impact other models, photographers and make-up artists.

American influencer Morgan Riddle called H&M's move "shameful" in a post on her Instagram stories.

"RIP to all the other jobs on shoot sets that this will take away," she posted.

The Swedish fashion giant, which also operates Arket, Cos, Monki, & Other Stories and Weekday, says it has more than 4,000 stores worldwide across 75 markets.

Watermarks and signposting

The initiative was first reported by industry publication Business of Fashion.

H&M told the outlet that models would retain rights over their digital replicas and their use by the company and other brands for purposes such as marketing.

Its images are likely to be initially used in social media posts, with watermarks that make their AI use clear, it added.

Platforms like Instagram and TikTok require users to disclose the use of AI to create realistic content, and it is labelled as such to inform audiences.

H&M also said models would be compensated for use of their digital twins in a similar way to current arrangements - which sees them paid for use of their images based on rates agreed by their agent.

Paul W Fleming, general secretary of trade union Equity - which represents fashion models in the UK - said models having full control over their likeness and fair pay for its use was "vital".

"Whilst we support brands who appear to be moving in this direction, this must be backed up by the widespread adoption of AI protections in union agreements and legislation that protects workers' rights," he told the BBC.

Equity, like many other trade unions representing performers and creatives, has been campaigning for better protections for workers amid an explosion of AI-generated content and initiatives online.

"Unfortunately, the current landscape has little to no such protections," Mr Fleming added, citing mass, illegal scraping of their model members' work by big tech and AI developers without their consent.

Fashion firms including Hugo Boss and Levi Strauss & Co have also dabbled in using generative AI for product images.

Denim giant Levi's said in 2023 it would trial the use of AI-generated model images as a way to "increase diversity".

Following criticism, it clarified it would not scale back live photoshoots with models.

• What is AI, how does it work and what are the concerns about it?

Generative AI can create photo-realistic images in response to simple text prompts at high speed and low cost.

Because of this, it has been seized upon by many industries and firms as a way to meet demands for content such as marketing material.

But its use by fashion and beauty brands has sparked backlash amid concerns its increased adoption could reduce job opportunities.

Some fear it may lead to less work for production staff on photoshoots, including photographers, stylists, make-up artists and lighting assistants.

The company says it is working with Swedish tech firm Uncut on the development of the model's AI likenesses.

Uncut says on its website it is "helping big brands say goodbye to outdated production methods" and making content creation "simpler, smarter and more affordable".

For some models, however, having a so-called "AI twin" can allow them to take on more work and avoid travel.

"She's like me, without the jet-lag," said model Mathilda Gvarliani in a H&M image shared with Business of Fashion.

Mr Fleming, though, told the BBC that models are still "being forced to sign unfair contracts which deny them their rights to ownership and fair compensation".

"This is an abhorrent violation when all of our likenesses are incredibly personal to each of us," he added.